Day 77: The Best Massage Ever

Like all good stories this one doesn't have much to do at all with the title but it will still all make sense by the time you finish. Yesterday started the way any good day starts...at 11:00 in the morning and not a minute earlier. Since Luke and I'd been up so early the day before (see previous entry) we felt a well deserved sleepin was earned. But once awake our day changed drastically as we were rudely thrown into a world of pain. I almost can't bear to continue...but I must.

Okay, so maybe I lied. After waking our first order of business was breakfast as usual. The sandwiches we get all the time at the bakery are anything but painful to eat. Very cheap too...and they have apple donuts. But then the PAIN.

This day was our climbing day. We picked up our gear and our guides at K.E. Climbing just around the corner from our guest house and trekked off to the limestone cliffs on the west side of Ton Sai. (Ben, you're going to love these pictures) We were sweating buckets by the time we got to the base but at least the cliffs are so steep that by 2:00 pm you're already in the shade. The rocks soak up a lot of heat, though, so you feel like you're standing beside an oven.

I guess if I don't get to the climbing soon I may never get it all in. There are small hooks that are cemented into the rock every 6 feet or so but our guide still has to free climb (lead climb) up the first time to get the rope to the top loop. After that it's our turn. The ledges and holes are pretty easy to hold onto, almost felt like the holds at an artificial indoor wall, but it's still a real workout to get to the top. Luke was usually the quickest up but I still think I had the easiest time with my extra height...lots more options open to me. Nevin...well Nevin had a rough day.

We did five climbs each and could not do another one after. We even tired out the guide. We also took a couple turns on the belaying system. The guide kept reminding us "your friend life in your hand" with a smile. We also took turns fighting off the monkeys tring to steal our fruit. This can be done with rocks and loud noises, we're practiced with both.

The best part of every climb was of course getting to the top. Luke and I dared to take the camera up with us on a couple of acents. I think I know were they got the photos for some of their postcards. The view was amazing from up there. You actually didn't want to rappel down...not because of the view but because leaning your butt out off at 25 m cliff is damn scary.

As the sun really started to set we made the long and painful walk back to the climbing shop. Our legs were stiff but nothing compared to the screaming from our biceps and trapezoids...apparently they don't get a lot of exercise walking to the beach everyday. A couple of chicken and beef skewers replenished the energy and showers removed much of the sweat and stench (oh yeah...we were NOT smelling pretty). Nevin and I took it one step further. OIL MASSAGES!! See, I told you it would all make sense. These "veteran" ladies were incredible. My legs instantly felt better after the first 10 minutes. My back though...I thought I was going to shatter the teeth in my clenched mouth when she started kneading the knots in my back. It was probably the most painful part of the day but also the best. Nevin and I walked out of there feeling fresh, flexible, and really, really oily. Time for another shower.

That's about it for the climbing expidition. I'd say the best thing we did on Koh Phi Phi. One second...I'll take a poll. The others agree with me. We are united.

So, now we come back to the present. The three of us left the island early this morning and we are now in Phang Nga, north of Koh Phi Phi and at the top of the Andaman Sea. This is where the really cool limestone topography is found. We visited a couple caves this afternoon. Pretty cool if you ignore the roving gangs of 16 year olds still wearing their school uniforms. Tough to be intimidated by little people who only come up to your nipples. Tomorrow we're taking an overnight boat tour to see the sights here. Included is a stop at James Bond Island (seen in The Man With The Golden Gun) and our overnight is in a fishing village built on stilts. Much safer than our other recent activities. Ciao!