Part 3: The Gulf Islands

There are three main islands in the Gulf of Thailand. Koh Samui is the largest and is very touristy. Koh Phangan is next largest, has some nice secluded beaches, and of course, is home to the Full Moon Party. Koh Tao is smallest and is a diver's paradise (not to mention some good food). Really a week is needed on each of these islands but I'm going to pose three different ways to try to get the most of of them in one week. Most important though, like I said last post, fly there.

The Water-Nut
So, you want to dive, eh? As soon as you get to Koh Samui on the plane catch a ferry to Koh Tao (about 500 baht). There are many dive shops but I think all three of us would recomment Asia Divers as a good choice. They have great instructors, equipment, and boats plus they have their own teaching pool and hotel. We payed 8,500 baht ($255 CDN) for a five day course with rooms included. Best deal we heard about on the island. Often you'll finish your day's course work with daylight left. I think if you mentioned you had other stuff to see (snorkeling, sightseeing) they'd try to compress the classroom work and get you out early.

Renting scooters is scary (and probably dumb for new riders) but I guess it's one of the safer places in Thailand to learn. There is a beautiful rocky bay on the east side of the island but getting there is crazy. I think you could walk there in an hour or less. Also, there is some good snorkeling at the south end of the island in Shark Bay. Yes, there are sharks but no, they won't hurt you. We saw almost all the same sea life there that we did diving. The other high point, the food. You MUST eat lunch at Zanzibar...incredible sandwiches. You MUST eat supper at Portabello...pesto appetizer...mmmmm.

On your last day of diving you can leave for Koh Samui right away unless you want a copy of the video they take of you on your last dives. Koh Samui has the biggest waves and the best beaches for fun in the water. Body surf on Chewang Beach, party it up at the Green Mango, and stay at Charlie's Hut...oh sorry, you can't do that...it's gone....too bad.

The Old Guys
There are two places you need to see. I would say after travelling all the way from the north of Thailand your old bones can't take much more. Well don't worry (that's only for really old people...and parents with children in Thailand) because Boput Beach isn't far from the airport. This is a nice quiet strip of restaurants and tourist shops. The beach is beautiful and has an amazing view of Koh Phangan. So relax and enjoy. If the weather cooperates and you have a calm, sunny day take a day trip to Anthong National Marine Park. You've seen the pictures, I don't need to explain how amazing this collection of islands is.

Next, take a ferry to Koh Tao and check into the cool bungalows on Koh Nang Yuan. You can snorkel on this tiny private island resort, suntan on the beach, and not deal with the noise of the main island. Still...you MUST travel there for a day trip or two to eat at Zanzibar and Portabello.

The Puker
This is the person who is pretty much just going to Thailand to take part in the famous Full Moon Party. If you go to one, you may think you're really cool and all but remember one thing, we went to TWO! Try to get there two or three days before the party night to get a nice place (Sunsmile Bungalows were great and cheap). There are great pre-F.M. parties to attend and spending your days on Sunrise Beach isn't too bad either...he he. Perfect F.M. party projects: paint yourself, pose with passed-out people, and play with fire...you pyro!

After you recover, leave. Hat Rin is nice but you'll see enough before the party. After you can basically do anything mentioned earlier in this post. I think Bottle Beach is a must see and you wouldn't have to travel far. But, if you need to keep up the wild nights, hit up Chewang Beach on Koh Samui.

Next Stop
Again, if you can plan enough (and those travelling on short three week trips usually can), buy your plane tickets from Koh Samui to Phuket early so that it's cheaper. You can travel buy ferry and bus if you want but we all know that can go terribly wrong.

Part 2: The North (Chiang Mai)

Bangkok is nice and all but we were only there a day before we HAD to get out. It made sense to us to travel the North first while we still had lots of energy and then hit the beaches later in the trip to relax and build up our tans to come home. We still stand by this logic and it made for a very enjoyable trip.

Getting There
It's about a 12 hour train ride from Bangkok to Chiang Mai so it's a good idea to try to break that up. We left Bangkok early in the morning and took a short 2 hour train to Ayutthaya. This is was the former seat of power in Thailand hundreds of years ago until the city was sacked by the Burmese. There are lots of ruins around and it's easily worth a day. Then taking a night train to Chiang Mai saves you paying for a night in a hotel (and though I may have complained about the short bunks it really wasn't a bad trip). Our main suggestions for trains. DON'T take the 1st class air conditioned train. You'll freeze your butt off. Fans are plenty. Also, bring your own food (chips, water) because they really rip you off.

Chiang Mai
Upon entering Chiang Mai...leave. Well spend a day or two if you want but this is the part of the country to trek, ride elephants, and ride bamboo rafts. We did a three day trek in the Nantional Park. If you like showers, semi-real toilets, and non-sore muscles...just do a one day trek. Or a couple of them. At the end of a three day trek it's like finishing 40 minutes on the treadmill. You're glad you did it but you need a couple days to recover. It is enjoyable though. Jump in the rivers, swim under waterfalls, visit with the villagers.

Back in Chiang Mai try to stay in a guest house close to the night bizarre road. (Should be able to find a place for 200-300 baht per night). Nights are kind of slow there so most evenings you'll be walking through the stalls looking for good deals. If you decide to buy stuff there (which could be a good idea since stuff is cheap here and you do find things you won't find other places) buy enough to fill a mail-able package and mail it home. Don't carry it around Thailand.

Things to see in the city:
-local industries. You can easily find a "guide" who will take you around to all the local silk, paper, wood, carpet, and jewel shops. They show you around the work area and you get to see how everything is made. After that, of course, is the "gallery" where you can feel free to buy their stuff. Sure it's a gimick but there is really nice stuff. Great trip for moms!
-down on Sukumvit Road is a nice pool if you need a place to cool off. We went twice.
-in the old part of the city (inside the walls) we found some kids break dancing at night in square.
-don't be afraid to try the small, dingy looking restaurants along the roads. Usually they're very good. One hint, look for busy places, especially ones with locals eating...there must be a good reason for that.

Next Stop: The Gulf Islands
Travelling by bus and trains is cheap but also long and uncomforable. If you not on a limited budget but on limited time, fly. The early you book, the cheaper it is. We flew from Bangkok to Surat Thani for $45 and from Phuket to Bangkok for $30. It's much more fun and saves you precious time. So...FLY! Get a ticket from Chiang Mai to Bangkok to Koh Samui...and start putting on the sun screen.